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It rather, as the modeler says it, his own interpretation. The KombatKart can be used by game enthusiasts to practice their painting job and to involve it in your own game stories. The 3D model features a workable top cover, meaning that you will be able to open it and throw some ork boys there. The 3D model files are shared for free on Thingiverse. We all are used to seeing and being amazed at 3D printed game characters.
But how about a video game or tabletop 3D printed terrain? Certainly, this is something all tabletop game enthusiasts will find useful. This multipurpose, crystal terrain can be used in both 40k and in a fantasy setting.
The idea behind this cool terrain came to a father and son. And because 3D printing gets a little bit expensive, they decided to design 3D print a master mold. They have already cast the terrain in plaster and the result came out pretty nice. Just add some paint, depending on the game setting, and you have your own terrain. We have heard and even seen 3D printed game miniatures.
But this man went as far as creating an impressive Warhammer Space Marine costume, using foam and a lot of 3D printing. However, after a great pain and a lot of ingenuity, the costume turned out really impressive, standing 7ft tall.
Gary documented every step of his work on the Instructables page. Little by little, you can assemble an entire army of works and Space Marine, create a tabletop game scenery for your own entertainment. Gambody, 3D Printing Blog.
TheChirurgeon: I fuckin loathe this part. I spent a good evening individually scrubbing every part of mine with an old Sonicare toohbrush and then letting them air-dry. Even then, I think I still probably missed a spot or two of release agent, but using a coat of varnish pre-paint has helped immensely. A Chaos Warhound, scrubbed and drying. You can probably see the ugly seam line on the top carapace of my Titan here, which is from jamming the thing on a little too hard, and snapping the side off.
So, uh, be careful. When resin heats up, it becomes very soft and bendy. Which is handy because usually at least one of the resin parts you get from Forge World is going to be warped. The feet are one of the most important parts of the Warhound, because they basically hold the rest of the model in place.
It also reduces the amount of space the thing takes up. Anyways, I just used a mix of green stuff and superglue for the toes and this was a mistake.
The toes break off all the damn time. You can see where the piston assembly on the toes is. I hate these things. And keep track of which toe goes where, because it very much matters.
I did this using a laptop touchpad and Preview, so yes, this image sucks:. Pin the shit out of these things. Those are where you want to drill. Find a pin and drill bit that fits mostly inside there, and bore it all the way across.
Once the hole is drilled, dry-fit a pin into it, and cut it down to size with the saw. Other useful tips? I got exactly one hole drilled before my cat flipped out and took a chunk out of my arm, and then I had to stop building and go to the ER after it got infected. Feel free to not get cut up and go to the ER while you assemble your Warhound. TheChirurgeon: Also, dry-fit everything before cutting and gluing. The old adage fits very well here: Measure twice, cut once. And have green stuff handy to fill gaps.
Once you have the pins drilled and dry-fitted, and decided on a pose you like — I went with stepping slightly forward, but keep in mind that most of the mass of the thing is overhanging toward the front, and stability will matter — and you can start gluing.
Mix up a of the two epoxy parts — I just eyeballed the quantities here, and it went ok — and get to work covering the pins in it, before stuffing them into the holes. Mix less of it, you can always add more. Then fit the pistons, which have to be cut to size and superglued in. This part is pretty boring, so that is left as an exercise to the reader. Bore out both knee joints, and install another pin from the sole of the foot into the lower calf.
The cool thing about working with a model this size is that i was free to just use real tools in the assembly — in this case I used my DeWalt hand drill to drill everything, rather than having to rely on any tiny specialty tools. Still, things are getting easier now: two pins, one each from the groin piece into the ball joints. Putting these in is going to lock the entire assembly together, so just as a reminder, be careful.
Anyway, another good idea at this point is to sink a piece of rod into the back of that big knob on top, through the collar on the body piece that sits on top of it. I actually only did this on mine because it was the only way to keep the top half from falling off, but in a happy accident, now I can remove it to separate the two halves, and give myself even the faintest chance of actually fitting this bad boy into a case. The engine blocks on the sides are secured to the central body by two pins that run clear across all three pieces.
Then there are two pins connecting the front of the hull to the back, and one long one through the neck, up into the base of the head. This is my biggest regret about not using more metal rods in the assembly for reinforcement.
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